I wanted to share part of our journey exploring men’s fragrances in wetshaving. I have to admit that we knew very little about the subject, until I decided to release a fragrance with my shaving soap, splash, beard oil and bar soap. We needed help to do this. We couldn’t have done this alone. I reached out to the best shaving soap makers and fragrance experts for help.
What they taught me was there are 2 main elements that help you understand a fragrance, the scent profile and fragrance layers.
A Beginner's Guide to Fragrance Families: Understanding Perfume Scent Profiles
The first part in understanding a fragrance is to understand the group a scent might be characterized as. This subject has a few variations, but in general, scents are classified into different categories known as fragrance families or scent profiles. Each family captures a particular character or essence and can be further divided into subcategories.
Here's an overview of some of the the most common scent families and profile categories:
Floral
Main Profile:
Sweet, romantic, and feminine, floral scents are mostly derived from flowers.
Subcategories:
- Single Floral (Soliflore): Focuses on one flower (e.g., rose, jasmine).
- Bouquet: A blend of different floral notes.
- Examples: Rose, jasmine, lily, tuberose, violet.
Citrus
Main Profile:
Fresh, zesty, and invigorating, citrus scents are derived from citrus fruits.
Subcategories:
- Citrus Fruits: Lemon, orange, bergamot, lime.
- Aromatic Citrus: Citrus blended with herbs like rosemary or thyme.
- Examples: Lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin.
Woody
Main Profile:
Warm, earthy, and often masculine, woody scents evoke the smell of forests and nature. These are some of the most common scents you will find in wetshaving for men.
Subcategories:
- Dry Woods: Smoky and dry (e.g., vetiver, cedar). Our newest scent "Damascus" has smoky elements an could be considered part of this category, read more about this new men's scent "Damascus" here.
- Mossy Woods (Chypre): Earthy and green with oakmoss.
- Examples: Sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, vetiver.
Oriental (Amber)
Main Profile:
Warm, spicy, and exotic, oriental scents are rich and opulent.
Subcategories:
- Floral Oriental: Blend of floral notes with oriental warmth (e.g., jasmine with spices).
- Spicy Oriental: Strong spice notes like cinnamon or clove.
- Woody Oriental: Oriental scents with a woody base like sandalwood or amber.
- Examples: Amber, vanilla, musk, incense, spices.
Fresh (Aromatic)
Main Profile:
Clean, light, and energizing, fresh scents are also often reminiscent of the outdoors.
Subcategories:
- Green: Smells of fresh-cut grass or leaves.
- Aromatic: Herbal and aromatic (e.g., lavender, mint).
- Aquatic (Marine): Reminiscent of the sea or ocean breeze.
- Fruity: Bright, juicy fruits like apple, pear, or berries (excluding citrus).
- Examples: Lavender, mint, cucumber, fresh grass.
Fougère
Main Profile:
The word fougère is French for "fern". A classic family with a blend of fresh, floral, and woody elements. Often used in men’s fragrances.
Subcategories:
- Aromatic Fougère: Fresh herbs combined with lavender and woody notes.
- Spicy Fougère: Incorporates spices for warmth.
- Examples: Fern, lavender, oakmoss, coumarin, geranium.
Gourmand
Main Profile:
- Edible, dessert-like fragrances, sweet and often rich.
- Examples: Vanilla, chocolate, caramel, coffee, honey, praline.
Leather
Main Profile:
Smoky, rich, and animalic, leather fragrances evoke the smell of leather goods. Often a masculine scent, reminiscent of what you might smell in an old library or vintage cigar room.
Subcategories:
- Floral Leather: Leather combined with floral notes.
- Tobacco Leather: Rich tobacco adds warmth to leather bases. "Damascus" has elements of the tobacco category, read more about our new "Damascus" men's scent here.
- Examples: Suede, tobacco, smoky woods, birch tar.
Chypre
Main Profile:
Chypre is french for Cyprus and a nod to the islands fragrant agricultural scents, thought to have been developed during the Roman times. Earthy, mossy, and slightly floral, with a balance between freshness and richness.
Subcategories:
- Floral Chypre: Combines mossy base notes with floral top notes. I talk more about top notes below.
- Fruity Chypre: Adds fruity notes like peach or plum.
- Examples: Bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum.
Fruity
Main Profile:
- Sweet, juicy, and bright, fruity fragrances focus on the scent of fruits (excluding citrus).
- Examples: Peach, apple, pear, berries, pineapple.
Each fragrance family plays a key role in the overall scent profile of a perfume, and most men's colognes and men's scents are created by blending notes from different families to create complex and unique fragrance. Understanding these categories helps in selecting or creating perfumes based on personal preferences.
Fragrance Layers - What are middle or heart note in a wide range of perfumes and colognes? What are top notes and dry down notes?
The second element of understanding a men's fragrance is to know about the different layers that a scent will develop over time or how a scent will mature as it is worn. In perfumery, fragrances are often composed of different layers of scent notes, each serving a specific purpose in the overall fragrance composition. These layers are referred to as top notes, middle notes (or heart notes), and base notes (sometimes referred to as dry down notes).
Here's what each of these notes represents:
Top Notes:
Top notes are the initial impression of a fragrance. They are the first scents you perceive when you apply a perfume or cologne and are typically the most volatile, meaning they evaporate relatively quickly. Top notes are often fresh, bright, and uplifting, designed to grab your attention and make a strong first impression. Common top notes include citrus fruits (such as bergamot, lemon, or orange), herbal notes (like lavender or mint), and spicy notes (such as ginger or black pepper).
Middle Notes (or Heart Notes):
Middle notes, also known as heart notes, emerge once the top notes begin to dissipate. They form the core of the fragrance and contribute to its overall character and theme. Middle notes are more stable than top notes and typically last longer on the skin. They help to soften the initial impression of the fragrance and provide depth and complexity. Middle notes are often floral, fruity, or herbal in nature, adding warmth and richness to the fragrance. Common middle notes include floral essences (such as rose, jasmine, or ylang-ylang), herbal notes (like lavender or sage), and spicy notes (such as cinnamon or cardamom).
Base Notes (or Dry Down Notes):
Base notes, also known as dry down notes, emerge as the fragrance evolves over time. They are the final phase of the fragrance and provide the foundation upon which the top and middle notes rest. Base notes are typically the least volatile and evaporate slowly, lingering on the skin for hours after the top and middle notes have faded. Base notes are often rich, warm, and sensual, grounding the fragrance and giving it depth and longevity. Common base notes include woody essences (such as sandalwood, cedarwood, or vetiver), balsamic notes (like vanilla or benzoin), and animalic notes (such as musk or amber).
Together, these three layers of scent notes create a harmonious and multi-dimensional fragrance experience, with each note contributing to the overall impression and character of the perfume or cologne.
These 2 elements, the fragrance profiles and the fragrance layers make up the life of a scent. The questions become what suites you? What do you remember from your past? What do you like? There is no right or wrong…you choose you ✌️❤️
How to Use a Parfum Extrait or Men's Cologne:
For a captivating experience from a scent, apply a Parfum Extrait to pulse points—wrists, neck, and behind the ears. A little goes a long way…
What is your favorite scent? Leave a comment below, would love to know your thoughts 👇